At EPM performance imports, we are suppliers of top quality aftermarket motorcycle suspension components for all major makes and models of motorcycle.
From our facility in New Jersey we offer expert advice to help you select the perfect aftermarket shock absorber for your motorcycle and your budget. We are the exclusive Hyperpro distributor in the United States. We also ship overseas! No matter what your needs or price range, we have the perfect shocks for your bike!
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We carry top quality springs, lowering kits, steering dampers, light conversion kits and gps mounts. Read More. View Raising Links. View Light Kits. View GPS Mounts. What a Difference!! The Hyperpro shock is so much better, there is no comparison, huge difference….
Hyperpro Shock on BMW. I thought the OEM components we good albeit getting worn with 32K on them.Vein in forehead when smiling meaning
Until I installed the new shocks and put miles on for a break in ride. The handling, cornering and overall ride has improved drastically. It basically feels like a different bike, in a good way!
Thanks again for a job well done. YSS Shock Update. Damps quickly for left-right transitions and very stable over broad 80mph sweepers. Very confidence inspiring.Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Could someone clarify something that I have been wondering about for some time?
They are, I gather, "Electronic Shock Absorbers", which are controlled by the bikes computer. I'm sure they are wonderful to own. At this point, we have all accepted that factory supplied shocks are totally worn out by the 40, mile mark, and need replacement. My question is: is this equally true for the new ESA shocks?
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If so, are they rebuildable by either dealerships, or aftermarket people? Or is it that, like our old style, non-ESA shocks,they are pretty much a throwaway item at that mileage point? If that is the case, how can people do it? What am I missing here? What you are missing is that ESA is a nice sales gimmick that is not only useless for a great many riders, but an obstacle as well when it comes time to redo suspension. ESA suffers, ironically, from it's lack of adjustability.
You can't change the baseline settings on the shocks nor the increments of the steps for preload and damping. So, if you match the "typical" rider that the engineering team set up for, ESA is better than homogenized peanut butter.Repair of rear shock absorber WP BMW K1600GT part 2
If you're not a match, you get an expensive add-on that isn't particularly useful and which makes rebuild or replacement expensive. I've never met that "typical" rider.
Anyway, for ESA to be worth the expense and hassle it would be designed with infinite adjustability--set your own initial preload and damping settings and lock them in, set your own increments for preload and damping changes and lock in the sets, and all would be well. But take heart--there are starting to be some vendors offering rebuild services for ESA units, and there are any number of aftermarket suspension vendors who can supply you with high-quality non-ESA suspension units at a far lower cost than what BMW wants for an ESA replacement--and you won't miss the button-pushing.
And, there are vendors who can take the ESA bits off your flagged-out OEM units and mount them on some excellent aftermarket shocks. That's the direction I took when my ESA units went south. But even after doing that, I still find ESA to be a "meh" proposition. IMHO, of course. Best, DG. Originally Posted by jconway Originally Posted by GTRider.
Originally Posted by Rinty.It is operated using a thumb button on the left handlebar. All of these shockabsorbers are fully serviceable by ESA Repair. All Activities are done at the same procedure as done by factory, which means that it still meets the high standard requirements.
Do you need a new expensive shockabsorber? No, ESA Repair can do the job for you. We can repair any problem in the shockabsorber, regardless it is hydraulic leakagemechanical or electrical no adjustments. Leaking shockabsorbers? Choose service 1. Service 1 includes.
Below is an example list of model types we can service. Is yours not listed? K GT. K LT. K RS. K S ESA. R GS.Cutting metal surplus java solution
R NineT. R NineT Pure. R NineT Racer. R NineT Scrambler factory low. R R ESA. R S ohlins shocks. Service 2 includes. Service 3. Using good suspension and damping provides more safety on the bike.BeemerShop is currently open with normal hours, and our mail order business is fully operational. We will continue to take online and phone orders, ship products, and perform component repairs as usual. Please note: Due to the Corona virus we are not accepting walk-in retail customers at this time.
If you are a local customer and cannot conduct business with us through our mail order system, please call us in advance for instructions. Thank you for your understanding.
BMW Shock Answers
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We offer motorcycle shock and fork re-valving, fork cartridge emulator kits, fork cartridge upgrade kits, on-site dyno testing, and motorcycle shock rebuilding. No one knows the Hexcode products better than us! Due to Ted's involvement with BMW motorcycles going back to the 's, we are also internationally known BMW experts offering cylinder head reconditioning services for "Airhead" BMW motorcycles from We are an official Siebenrock importer and stock a wide variety of original and reproduction Parts and Accessories for BMW motorcycles.
Join Our Newsletter Receive the latest news on new promotions, exclusive offers, and new arrivals. Powered by Miva. Motorcycle Suspension Center. Shop by Bike. Airhead Center. GS Diagnostic Tool. We know you'll love our featured products because they are on our top sellers list! Quickview Add to Cart.By Corazon de Pollo, January 24, in Wetheads. I had Wilbers ESA shocks on my Hexhead and will most likely go with those again as I was extermely satisfied with both shocks and customer service.
However there's one thing that is not clear to me: does Dynamic ESA shocks need some kind of dealer-specific calibration when installed or are they "plug and play" like old ESA shocks? I haven't bought a manual for this bike yet as I leave the dealership handle all maintenance but I had almost no problem with replacing the shocks of the Hexhead. I figure the mechanical part is not much different and the biggest challenge is figuring out how to keep the bike from toppling without both shocks.
I know the dynamic ESA is something somewhat different than you had on the Hexhead. My understanding is that you have two choices for aftermarket - Hyperpro or Touratech. How many miles do you have on your bike now? Most of the brands use the stock BMW motor this requires you to send the rear shock in. Depends on a number of things but if the static height gets altered by the new shocks then it will probably need a calibration. Are yours presently leaking or damaged?
No problem, I'll just buy the manual, have a look in there and then decide what to do, but generally new suspensions are cheaper than a new bike.
No problem, I'll just buy the manual, have a look in there and then decide what to dobut generally new suspensions are cheaper than a new bike. Hi Corazon de Pollo. Still trying to get to the bottom of why you need to change yours. Let me explain because I have been down this route myself. I was convinced that my units were toast. The damping and general ride was all over the place. Are you actually looking for responses on the step by step process of removal and fitting of the current units or are you looking for information on who can provide alternative units?
I have only seen write ups on the Tractive aftermarket shocks including the Touratech. One write up indicated that you needed to have you shocks set on one helmet and in road mode. No recalibration was needed.
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At the end of the installation. I don't remember what the computer interface displayed at the time, but it was successful and the results were excellent. I traded that KGT for my current RRT and love the lighter weight, wind protection, fuel economy, and longer tire wear but miss the turbine like power!
To do a conversion of the shocks to Wilbers definitely requires the training and tools to disassemble the shock and spring to install a new damper cartridge and proper spring for your overall weight and ride performance. Doing a remove and install of the shocks is complex, time consuming and detailed work, but doable with just a few special tools.
Here is a screen shot of the interface with my bike showing that it can carry out the calibration. So it looks like this bike will be sold, that's way too much trouble for me and I have no intention to waste my money on diagnostics. I guess the answer here others are asking is "are you possibly wasting money on new aftermarket shocks"? I have 40, miles on my RT. I cannot tell any degradation in shock performance, I will give that such a change would occur gradually and might be there unnoticed by me.
But when in "dynamic" mode, shock action seems really good to me.By Tommy78, August 25, in Hexheads. Is it normal sitting on the bike and moving up and down to test the shocks to hit the bottom the shocks? If i were to replace shocks with Ohlins. Do i need to do front and rear? Or can i skip front and just do rear?
No idea if you have somebody local who can do the job but it's feasible. Price is usually about half what you'd pay for a new set of shocks but be sure they give you a full warranty on the rebuild. That's what I am using right now.Web bot website
Quite happy with them and came with a five year warranty! I would strongly recommend against changing a shock at a time. You'll end up with a very unbalanced bike. Check out RaceTech for a rebuild of your stock shocks. At 32k your OEM shocks are way past dead. It's not just about bottoming but topping the shocks, too, especially over speed bumps.
Don't mix shocks -- replace front and rear together. I'm partial to Ohlins. Good shocks will transform your bike in ways that will bring a huge smile to your face every time you lean into a curve, especially if the pavement isn't perfect. The improvement in control and comfort on any surface will amaze you. You won't recognized the bike. It'll be better than new. Yes im new to MC.
Most stock bike shocks lose their best performance by 30k. BMW stock shocks are pretty mediocre as new and are really bad when worn.
The only recourse for worn OEM shocks is to replace them. Good aftermarket shocks can be rebuilt when they're worn, which is less expensive than replacement. Ohlins and Wilbers build shocks specific to your bike, and the spring height will match stock. A professional installer will adjust the optimal ride height to your riding weight, or if you install them yourself there are instructions included for you to set them up.
There should be no need to adjust the headlights, but you may want to confirm the aiming, which is pretty simple. I had an 03 with 66k miles on it and the suspension still felt fine to me when I recently traded it for a RT. Thanks for the replys guys. Since i need a new rear tire, i am going to let the BMW deler check the shocks while it's there. I tried first to increase the knob further by and experimented with the rebound.
But i still bottom'ed the rear shocks at speed bumps etc. Front: Much thighter now, and i did a few test brakes and one emergency today and i did'nt get lunged forward like before. Rear: Test ride all over the country side to hit those speed bumps i bottom'ed ,and that problem is gone.
The bike feels much more solid, no more bouncy bouncy. The DR costs less but does not have the preload adjustment on a cable that would probably allow it to be mounted on the bike similar to the OE knob under the rear seat.All BMW rear shocks can be rebuilt.
The trick is re-charging it with nitrogen. On these bikes you will need to drill a hole or cut a notch and mark the top rear of the shock.
Be sure to paint the work site to prevent rust. Most but not all the front shocks can be rebuilt. The close up photo of the black spring and chrome shaft shows the cap on the body of a rebuild-able front shock. If you have ESA shocks. Please set the pre-load to one helmet and the ride to comfort before removing the shocks. I need to measure the installed length of the spring before I remove it and bleeding the shock is much easier with the adjuster open.
The stock springs are weak and over pre-loaded for most riders. Less pre-load will mean less wiggle after turns and bumps because of less stored energy. The valving in the stock Showa shocks is good.
The valving in the stock WP shocks sucks and needs to be changed. ESA Shocks The same as normal shocks except: You must back off the pre-load and damping before un-plugging the shock from the bike. Showa ESA shocks have weak springs but good valving.
WP ESA shocks have strong springs but bad valving.
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